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Suzuki Outboard Anodes - External & Internal

Suzuki Outboard Anodes - External & Internal

Suzuki Outboard Anodes protect important parts of your Suzuki Outboard Engine from corrosion. PartsVu stocks a complete selection of certified Suzuki Outboard Internal Anodes and Suzuki Outboard External Anodes to fit the exact specifications of your Suzuki outboard motor.

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  • Suzuki - Tab,trim - 55125-92J00-0EP

    Suzuki

    Suzuki - Tab,trim - 55125-92J00-0EP

    $131.61 $150.81
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  • Suzuki - Cvr,protection - 11261-93JL0

    Suzuki

    Suzuki - Cvr,protection - 11261-93JL0

    $14.12 $16.19
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  • Suzuki - Anode,protectio - 55321-95J00

    Suzuki

    Suzuki - Anode,protectio - 55321-95J00

    $9.75 $11.17
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  • Suzuki - Anode,protectio - 55321-99E00

    Suzuki

    Suzuki - Anode,protectio - 55321-99E00

    $9.86 $11.29
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Suzuki Internal Anodes and Suzuki External Anodes - Resources & Information

Suzuki Outboard Anodes are responsible for preventing corrosion to your Suzuki outboard engine. When a Suzuki anode is missing or deteriorates, whatever metal component it was installed to protect begins to dissolve due to several environmental factors (see the Suzuki Outboard Anodes FAQ below). This is why Suzuki outboard zinc anodes are often referred to as “sacraficial anodes”. Additionally, trim tab anodes that deteriorate can affect steering and performance. 

PartsVu offers a wide assortment of Suzuki anodes and Suzuki anode kits to protect your Suzuki outboard and help you to maintain optimal performance for years to come. 

Shop our collection Suzuki Outboard Anode Kits, including zinc anodes, aluminum anodes, and magnesium anodes, as well as an extensive collection of Suzuki outboard parts for your needs. In addition to Suzuki Outboard Anodes - External & Internal, PartsVu is also proud to help boaters by providing helpful resources for Suzuki outboard motors:

Suzuki Outboard External and Internal Anodes FAQs

What is a sacrificial anode? 

  • The factory-installed anodes must be in the water to provide protection.
    • Trim tab anodes may not be in the water when the lower unit is tilted up.
    • Transom bracket anodes may not be in the water on motors installed in applications requiring extremely high mounting.
  • Additional anodes are required when other metal components are in the system: aluminum hulls, jack plates, trim tabs, trolling motors, etc. The motor’s anodes not only will be unable to protect the other components, but will also be unable to protect the motor. They will also erode extremely quickly. Additional anodes may be required on a motor when used in applications other than what it was originally designed for. 
  • Anodes must be clean and free of paint to work properly.
  • Anodes must be electrically conductive and connected to the boat and motor’s grounding system. Conductivity through the anode material and between the anode and the boat’s electrical system deteriorates with time and exposure.
  • By design, anodes deteriorate as they provide protection and must be replaced periodically. Replace anodes when they have eroded to 2/3 their original size. Beware, looks can be deceiving. Anodes can lose mass (weight) without visibly looking smaller. Did you ever see one that looked like it was full of worm holes?
  • Water flow around a moored boat can disrupt the flow of electrons from the anode to the cathode. If the electrons from the anode do not make it to the cathode, the anode will shed even more electrons at a faster rate in its valiant effort to protect the cathode.
  • Boats connected to shore power could be electrically connected to other boats and dock structures through the common grounding wire (green) in the AC power system, forming one huge system. Anodes on one boat will try to protect other boats or submerged dock structures that do not have sufficient anode protection of their own. A galvanic isolator installed near the boat’s shore power receptacle in the AC grounding (green) wire blocks the flow of galvanic current between boats and dock structures connected to a shore power system.

How do I install a trim tab anode on my Suzuki outboard motor?

Also referred to as trim tab “zincs,” replacing Suzuki trim tab anodes is a relatively simple repair that can be performed in a manner of minutes. 

  1. First, identify where the trim tab anode on your Suzuki outboard is. It is typically located above the propeller on the anti-cavitation plate.
  2. Next, locate and remove the trim tab plug located directly above the trim tab. 
  3. In the cavity, you will insert a socket wrench with an extension to access the bolt securing the trim tab.
  4. Make a note of the hash marks by the trim tab, which indicates how many degrees they will be offset. Use a piece of masking tape if you have to remember the location so you won’t have to adjust it after installation.
  5. Slowly turn the bolt counterclockwise to loosen the trim tab until it loosens.
  6. Insert the new trim tab anode. Replacement is the opposite of installation.

That’s the entire process for replacing a trim tab on a Suzuki outboard motor. Simple!

What is the best Suzuki anode for freshwater?

The best anode for freshwater is made from magnesium. While aluminum and zinc are cheaper alternatives, serving as “catch-all” materials, magnesium helps prevent “potential reversal” at elevated temperatures commonly found in freshwaters. This means that materials besides magnesium may actually draw in unwanted corrosion and electrolysis, especially in marinas where boaters use land power.

Therefore, if you are looking to take your boat out from saltwater to freshwater, it may be wise to perform a Suzuki outboard anode replacement with magnesium anodes.

What types of corrosion can affect my Suzuki outboard motor?

When metals are exposed in the presence of water, whether fresh, brackish or salt, marine corrosion is inevitable. From the moment they are manufactured, nearly all metals are trying to return to the original form in which they existed when we dug them out of the ground.

The three types of corrosion boaters typically work to manage are:

  • Simple electrochemical corrosion
  • Galvanic corrosion
  • Electrolytic/stray current corrosion

All three types of marine corrosion are the result of an electrochemical process, the difference is how fast the corrosion occurs. The process speeds up when multiple metals are involved (galvanic corrosion) and faster still when unwanted electrical currents are applied (stray current corrosion). While the result of any of these types of corrosion is pretty much the same – exposed metal damage – there can be many reasons why the corrosion occurred in the first place. The challenge we face is identifying the type of corrosion and finding its true cause to minimize future corrosion.

How do I perform a 100-hour service on my Suzuki outboard engine?

To ensure proper engine function, it’s always best to service your Suzuki outboard engine every 100 hours after the initial break-in period (first 10 hours) and after the first maintenance interval (at 20 hours). 

The following is a Suzuki outboard 100-hour service checklist to help you service your engine properly:

Service Item

Action Needed

Grease Fittings

Lubricate

Engine Oil

Replace

Engine Oil Filter

Replace

Anodes

Inspect, replace as needed

Battery

Inspect

Power Trim and Tilt Fluid

Inspect

Connectors and Spray with Silicone Spray

Inspect & spray

Shift and Throttle Cable Linkages

Inspect

Retorque Bolts, Nuts, and Fasteners

Inspect

Engine Mounts and Steering Brackets 

Inspect

Spark Plugs

Inspect, change as needed

Gearcase Oil

Replace

Inspect Fuel Lines

Inspect, replace as needed

Fuel-Water Separator

Replace

Fuel Stabilizer

Add before storing or when filling tank

Mounting Bolts

Inspect

Propeller and Skeg 

Inspect

Cowling

Inspect

Telltale Hole for Water Flow

Inspect

If you want a more in-depth explanation of how to perform a 100-hour service on a Suzuki outboard engine, read our blog “Suzuki Outboard 100-Hour Service Checklist”. 

To make engine maintenance even easier, PartsVu has a wide selection of Suzuki outboard engine 100-hour service kits available. They’re pre-assembled with everything you need to keep your boat happy and healthy every 100 hours.