Suzuki Outboard Rigging, Steering, Gauges, and Throttle Controls

Suzuki Rigging, Steering, Gauges, and Throttle Controls - Resources & Information

Suzuki gauges and throttle controls allow you to monitor your outboard performance with absolute precision and control. PartsVu stocks a complete range of Suzuki rigging, steering, gauges, and throttle control-related products for all models and years:

• Suzuki Key Switches & Key Switch Panels
• Suzuki Control Boxes
• Suzuki Gauges & Gauge Kits
• Suzuki Throttle & Shift Cables and Cable Ends
• Suzuki Rigging Electrical Components
• Suzuki Wiring Harnesses

In addition to offering Suzuki Outboard Rigging, Steering, Gauges, and Throttle Controls, PartsVu is also proud to help boaters by providing helpful resources for Suzuki outboard motors:

• Suzuki Outboard Engine Oil Capacities & Oil Filter Chart
• Suzuki Outboard Engine Gear Lube Capacity Chart
• Suzuki Outboard 100-Hour Service Checklist
• Suzuki Outboard Season Breakout Guide

Suzuki Outboard Rigging, Steering, Gauges, and Throttle Controls FAQ

What should I know about my Suzuki Outboard Rigging, Steering, Gauges, and Throttle Controls?

Here’s some info you need to know about Suzuki Outboard Rigging, Steering, Gauges, and Throttle Controls:

• Suzuki outboard throttle control parts are durable year after year, but it’s important to always carry spare parts and the tools to work on them in case your Suzuki engine malfunctions or the part breaking down. For this reason, it’s important to carry and Suzual owner’s manual if you need to, for example, Suzuki outboard throttle control diagram out on the dock or on the water.
• Suzuki gauges and throttle controls are engineered to be accurate, but malfunctioning Suzuki controls and Suzuki gauges may give false readings or a lack of control. For example, Suzuki throttle controls may indicate that you’re operating at full RPMs, but an internal engine problem or a stretched out throttle control cables may be limiting performance.

How do I troubleshoot my Suzuki Outboard Motor?

It’s best to first address the simplest potential problems before getting into more complicated matters. The following quick fixes may address the reason your Suzuki outboard motor stopped working. 

• It may sound obvious, but check if there is gas in the tank. If so, is the tank vent open? A closed vent prevents air from replacing fuel as the motor pulls it out, which is necessary for firing up the engine. 
• If the kill switch isn’t properly attached it could very well be the source of your motor problems. Undo the electrical connection and put it right back into place. The kill switch may need to be replaced altogether. 
• The next point to check is your gear shift. It’s easy to knock out of place, which prevents the engine from starting. Make sure that you’re in neutral and try starting your engine once more. 
• Sometimes, the issue may simply be that your Suzuki engine propeller has something tangled around it. This may be a fishing line, excessive seaweed, or some other material that’s worked its way around the blades. Carefully remove anything that may be wrapped around the propeller, and give it a once-over for any damage that may be present. If the propeller is damaged, it needs to be replaced. Debris around the propeller is the most likely culprit if your boat motor starts, but quickly dies.
• Try to start the engine both with and without using the choke. If this doesn’t work, try altering the throttle position. Applying more or less gas can sometimes do the trick. Finally, squeeze the primer bulb a few times to make sure the engine is primed up.
• Some batteries have an on/off switch. If this is true for your battery, make sure the switch is on. Then, if your engine is under 25HP, you may be able to use the emergency cord to pull-start. It’s possible to do this with up to a 50HP engine, but be aware that the higher the HP, the more difficult this will be. If this works, the battery is likely the issue. You may need to replace it.

How do I perform a 100-hour service on my Suzuki outboard engine?

To ensure proper engine function, it’s always best to service your Suzuki outboard engine every 100 hours after the initial break-in period (first 10 hours) and after the first maintenance interval (at 20 hours). 

The following is a Suzuki outboard 100-hour service checklist to help you service your engine properly:

If you want a more in-depth explanation of how to perform a 100-hour service on a Suzuki outboard engine, read our blog “Suzuki Outboard 100-Hour Service Checklist”. Also, be sure to refer to your Suzuki Outboard Service Manual for which parts you’ll need, how to perform basic repairs, and other engine specific tasks

To make engine maintenance even easier, PartsVu has a wide selection of Suzuki outboard engine 100-hour service kits available. They’re pre-assembled with everything you need to keep your boat happy and healthy every 100 hours.

Why won’t my Suzuki outboard start?

If your Suzuki outboard doesn’t start, you’ll need to start from the most obvious causes, then move to more complicated possibilities. Here’s a run-down:

• Make sure that the kill cord is attached.
• Because your Suzuki outboard won’t start in gear, ensure the engine is in neutral.
• Inadequate fuel supply is a common issue, either from pinched hoses or a lack of fuel in the gas tank(s).
• Make sure that there’s no water in the fuel lines. Perform a visual inspection in the water separator bowl for traces of water.
• Look for fouled spark plugs (more common in small engines). If any fouled plugs are discovered, replace them with new spark plugs.
• Test your battery to ensure that it has adequate voltage. If it is underperforming or dead, consider replacing the battery and checking for any shorts that may be draining it.

For more info on troubleshooting your Suzuki outboard engine, be sure to read our blog “Suzuki Outboard Running Rough, Won’t Start, or Stopped Running” for a complete run-down of the most common issues you’ll face.

What is a sacrificial anode? 

The factory-installed Suzuki anodes must be in the water to provide protection.

• Trim tab anodes may not be in the water when the lower unit is tilted up.
• Transom bracket anodes may not be in the water on motors installed in applications requiring extremely high mounting.

Additional anodes are required when other metal components are in the system: aluminum hulls, jack plates, trim tabs, trolling motors, etc. The motor’s anodes not only will be unable to protect the other components, but will also be unable to protect the motor. They will also erode extremely quickly. Additional anodes may be required on a motor when used in applications other than what it was originally designed for. 

Anodes must be clean and free of paint to work properly.

Anodes must be electrically conductive and connected to the boat and motor’s grounding system. Conductivity through the anode material and between the anode and the boat’s electrical system deteriorates with time and exposure.

By design, anodes deteriorate as they provide protection and must be replaced periodically. Replace anodes when they have eroded to 2/3 their original size. Beware, looks can be deceiving. Anodes can lose mass (weight) without visibly looking smaller. Did you ever see one that looked like it was full of worm holes?

Water flow around a moored boat can disrupt the flow of electrons from the anode to the cathode. If the electrons from the anode do not make it to the cathode, the anode will shed even more electrons at a faster rate in its valiant effort to protect the cathode.

Boats connected to shore power could be electrically connected to other boats and dock structures through the common grounding wire (green) in the AC power system, forming one huge system. Anodes on one boat will try to protect other boats or submerged dock structures that do not have sufficient anode protection of their own. A galvanic isolator installed near the boat’s shore power receptacle in the AC grounding (green) wire blocks the flow of galvanic current between boats and dock structures connected to a shore power system.

What outboard engine tools should I have onboard?

Even if you don’t do your own maintenance, all boaters need some basic boat tools in their marine tool kits to help them out of a jam. Of course, if you plan to do your own maintenance or a portion of your own maintenance, you’ll need to be a bit better equipped.

So which boat tools and Suzuki outboard parts should you have onboard? The following are our recommendations and the reasons behind them. Of course, the tools you should have onboard are significantly dictated by the type of boating you do. As a practical matter, a near-shore, freshwater boater needs fewer tools than an off-shore boater. While a problem close to the shore can be an annoyance, a problem off-shore might be a whole different matter.

• Suzuki Fuel filter wrench—good idea to have on board if you get enough water or debris in your fuel system that a fuel filter change becomes necessary.
• Adjustable band filter wrench—you may need to change your fuel/water separating filter if you have water in your system or if you got some bad gas at the marina. US marinas nearly always sell high-quality filtered gasoline, but marines in the Bahamas are notorious for selling contaminated gasoline.
• Prop nut wrench—carrying this wrench only makes sense if you carry a spare prop. Many boaters carry a spare inexpensive aluminum prop in case they spin a hub or bend a blade so severely that it wobbles.
• Deck fill key/deck plate key/spanner wrench—these universal tools are designed to open all types and sizes of deck fill lids and shackles. Many of these tools also include bonus tools like bottle openers. Perfect for a cold one after fishing.
• Suzuki toolkit—if you have room on your boat, all-purpose toolkits can come in handy. 
• Pliers—channel lock, standard, and needle nose
• Leatherman–a very helpful all-purpose tool.
• Rigging knife
• Serrated knife—for cutting rope, your all-purpose tool might include a serrated blade.
• Flashlight
• Emergency plug set—in case a leak manifests while you are out on the water.
• Battery booster pack
• Battery terminal cleaner
• Zip ties—because we all know that you can fix almost everything with zip ties and duck tape.
• Duct tape