Suzuki Outboard Hard Parts

Suzuki Marine Hard Parts- Resources & Information

Suzuki Engine Parts such as crankshafts, bearings, pistons, rings, cams, lifters, pushrods, valves, and other valve-train components are called Suzuki hard parts because they are the hard metal components inside an outboard engine. PartsVu offers a complete selection of certified OEM Suzuki Outboard Replacement Hard Parts to fit your Suzuki outboard engine’s exact specifications and year.

In addition to OEM Suzuki Outboard Parts, PartsVu is also proud to help boaters by providing helpful resources for Suzuki outboard motors:

• Suzuki Outboard Engine Oil Capacities & Oil Filter Chart
• Suzuki Outboard Engine Gear Lube Capacity Chart
• Suzuki Outboard 100-Hour Service Checklist
• Suzuki Outboard Season Breakout Guide

Suzuki Outboard Hard Parts FAQ

How do I protect the exterior of my Suzuki outboard motor?

For the exterior of your Suzuki Outboard Engine, coat these surfaces with anti-corrosion products like Corrosion Guard. This rust inhibitor forms a water-resistant barrier on both painted and unpainted surfaces. We recommend using it at every service interval with a liberal application to all metal engine surfaces. You can also use it on outdrives, lower units, and power trim motors.

The marine environment is one of the harshest on the planet. This is why protecting your boat from corrosion is extremely important. For premium defense against rust, we highly recommend this product.

Also, PartsVu carries Suzuki Marine Spray Paint. The durable enamel coating of these spray paint products, in factory-matched colors, provide excellent coverage against the elements. Everything you need to restore or customize your cowling cover.

Suzuki marine spray paints are high-quality, factory-matched spray paint for touch-ups or full overcoat application. This durable enamel coating provides good performance in the rigors of the marine environment. As is the case with any painting task, surface preparation is very important. Note that paint may fade over time on an outboard motor exposed to the elements over time, so the factory-fresh color supplied in this can may not match older paint exactly. Therefore, the application area may need to be larger to provide for proper blending of the color.

How do I take care of my Suzuki outboard engine’s exterior? 

PartsVu offers a wide array of polish and sealant products that will restore a lustrous shine to paint, chrome, glass, and smooth plastics like visors, engine cowlings, windshields, and gauges. For your Suzuki Outboard Cowling and Casing Assemblies, you can expect to repel dust and dirt to keep a long-lasting, ship-shape shine. 

Additionally, Suzuki boaters can use Yamalube External Engine Cleaner, a powerful engine degreaser and engine cleaner, to remove grease, mud, and grime. It is safe for use on most rubber, plastic, and painted metal surfaces.

What outboard engine tools should I have onboard?

Even if you don’t do your own maintenance, all boaters need some basic boat tools in their marine tool kits to help them out of a jam. Of course, if you plan to do your own maintenance or a portion of your own maintenance, you’ll need to be a bit better equipped.

So which boat tools should you have onboard? The following are our recommendations and the reasons behind them. Of course, the tools you should have onboard are significantly dictated by the type of boating you do. As a practical matter, a near-shore, freshwater boater needs fewer tools than an off-shore boater. While a problem close to the shore can be an annoyance, a problem off-shore might be a whole different matter.

• Suzuki Fuel filter wrench—good idea to have on board if you get enough water or debris in your fuel system that a fuel filter change becomes necessary.
• Adjustable band filter wrench—you may need to change your fuel/water separating filter if you have water in your system or if you got some bad gas at the marina. US marinas nearly always sell high-quality filtered gasoline, but marines in the Bahamas are notorious for selling contaminated gasoline.
• Prop nut wrench—carrying this wrench only makes sense if you carry a spare prop. Many boaters carry a spare inexpensive aluminum prop in case they spin a hub or bend a blade so severely that it wobbles.
• Deck fill key/deck plate key/spanner wrench—these universal tools are designed to open all types and sizes of deck fill lids and shackles. Many of these tools also include bonus tools like bottle openers. Perfect for a cold one after fishing.
• Suzuki toolkit—if you have room on your boat, all-purpose toolkits can come in handy. 
• Pliers—channel lock, standard, and needle nose
• Leatherman–a very helpful all-purpose tool.
• Rigging knife
• Serrated knife—for cutting rope, your all-purpose tool might include a serrated blade.
• Flashlight
• Emergency plug set—in case a leak manifests while you are out on the water.
• Battery booster pack
• Battery terminal cleaner
• Zip ties—because we all know that you can fix almost everything with zip ties and duck tape.
• Duct tape

What causes outboard engine vibration?

One of the primary causes of Suzuki outboard engine vibration is a damaged or compromised propeller. A characteristic sign that your propeller is the source of your problem is if throttling to higher RPMs intensifies the vibration. 

First, check each of your props to ensure that each is in relatively good condition – any bends or damage can cause vibrations from the uneven propulsion. If you find damage, you’ll need to repair or replace it.

Suzuki propellers tangled with seaweed and fishing line can also restrict the propeller’s ability to rotate evenly, causing unwanted vibrations. If you boat in shallow waters or heavily trafficked waterways, you will need to monitor your propeller even more regularly.

During your inspections, be sure to look at your Suzuki propeller shaft for damage. Use a wrench to tighten the steering pivot and mounting bolt if either is loose, which may be the source of the excessive outboard vibrations. Once again, if you find damage or believe that the shaft is misaligned, you may need to visit your marine mechanic.

One of the most common types of Suzuki outboard engine vibration may come from loose engine mounts. As you throttle up, reverse, and idle, the bolts that mount your engine(s) may come loose during prolonged operation, creating an intermittent vibration – as well as steering issues (i.e., steering towards starboard or port when the wheel is straight). 

To rectify this vibration, mounting bolts should be torqued to the degree specified for your engine. Carefully use a torque wrench to perform this task accurately and to ensure equal torquing across all mounts.

How do I troubleshoot a Suzuki Outboard Motor?

It’s best to first address the simplest potential problems before getting into more complicated matters. The following quick fixes may address the reason your Suzuki outboard motor stopped working. 

• It may sound obvious, but check if there is gas in the tank. If so, is the tank vent open? A closed vent prevents air from replacing fuel as the motor pulls it out, which is necessary for firing up the engine. 
• If the kill switch isn’t properly attached it could very well be the source of your motor problems. Undo the electrical connection and put it right back into place. The kill switch may need to be replaced altogether. 
• The next point to check is your gear shift. It’s easy to knock out of place, which prevents the engine from starting. Make sure that you’re in neutral and try starting your engine once more. 
• Sometimes, the issue may simply be that your Suzuki engine propeller has something tangled around it. This may be a fishing line, excessive seaweed, or some other material that’s worked its way around the blades. Carefully remove anything that may be wrapped around the propeller, and give it a once-over for any damage that may be present. If the propeller is damaged, it needs to be replaced. Debris around the propeller is the most likely culprit if your boat motor starts, but quickly dies.
• Try to start the engine both with and without using the choke. If this doesn’t work, try altering the throttle position. Applying more or less gas can sometimes do the trick. Finally, squeeze the primer bulb a few times to make sure the engine is primed up.
• Some batteries have an on/off switch. If this is true for your battery, make sure the switch is on. Then, if your engine is under 25HP, you may be able to use the emergency cord to pull-start. It’s possible to do this with up to a 50HP engine, but be aware that the higher the HP, the more difficult this will be. If this works, the battery is likely the issue. You may need to replace it.

How do I perform a 100-hour service on my Suzuki outboard engine?

To ensure proper engine function, it’s always best to service your Suzuki outboard engine every 100 hours after the initial break-in period (first 10 hours) and after the first maintenance interval (at 20 hours). 

The following is a Suzuki outboard 100-hour service checklist to help you service your engine properly:

If you want a more in-depth explanation of how to perform a 100-hour service on a Suzuki outboard engine, read our blog “Suzuki Outboard 100-Hour Service Checklist”. Also, be sure to refer to your Suzuki Outboard Service Manual for which parts you’ll need, how to perform basic repairs, and other engine specific tasks

To make engine maintenance even easier, PartsVu has a wide selection of Suzuki outboard engine 100-hour service kits available. They’re pre-assembled with everything you need to keep your boat happy and healthy every 100 hours.

What is a sacrificial anode? 

• The factory-installed anodes must be in the water to provide protection.
• Trim tab anodes may not be in the water when the lower unit is tilted up.
• Transom bracket anodes may not be in the water on motors installed in applications requiring extremely high mounting.
• Additional anodes are required when other metal components are in the system: aluminum hulls, jack plates, trim tabs, trolling motors, etc. The motor’s anodes not only will be unable to protect the other components, but will also be unable to protect the motor. They will also erode extremely quickly. Additional anodes may be required on a motor when used in applications other than what it was originally designed for. 
• Anodes must be clean and free of paint to work properly.
• Anodes must be electrically conductive and connected to the boat and motor’s grounding system. Conductivity through the anode material and between the anode and the boat’s electrical system deteriorates with time and exposure.
• By design, anodes deteriorate as they provide protection and must be replaced periodically. Replace anodes when they have eroded to 2/3 their original size. Beware, looks can be deceiving. Anodes can lose mass (weight) without visibly looking smaller. Did you ever see one that looked like it was full of worm holes?
• Water flow around a moored boat can disrupt the flow of electrons from the anode to the cathode. If the electrons from the anode do not make it to the cathode, the anode will shed even more electrons at a faster rate in its valiant effort to protect the cathode.
• Boats connected to shore power could be electrically connected to other boats and dock structures through the common grounding wire (green) in the AC power system, forming one huge system. Anodes on one boat will try to protect other boats or submerged dock structures that do not have sufficient anode protection of their own. A galvanic isolator installed near the boat’s shore power receptacle in the AC grounding (green) wire blocks the flow of galvanic current between boats and dock structures connected to a shore power system.