Suzuki Outboard Lower Unit Assemblies contain all of the components responsible for the drive system, cooling system, steering, and other essential functions. These Suzuki Lower Unit Assemblies include prop shafts, bearings, seals, and transmission components - all of which can wear and degrade due to heavy usage.
Suzuki
Open Box Suzuki - Lower unit (df1 - 50020-92803-0EP
$3,137.28$3,685.06Unit price /Unavailable
Suzuki Outboard Lower Unit Assemblies, Prop Shafts, and Transmission Components - Resources & Information
Suzuki Outboard Lower Unit Assemblies - Prop Shafts - Transmission Components enable your Suzuki engine to propel your boat through the water optimally. PartsVu offers a full selection of Suzuki Lower Unit Assemblies, Suzuki Prop Shafts, and Suzuki Transmission Parts for all models and years. Shop today with same-day shipping available and the lowest prices you’ll find online.
In addition to Suzuki Outboard Lower Unit Assemblies, Prop Shafts, & Transmission Components, PartsVu is also proud to help boaters by providing helpful resources for Suzuki outboard motors:
- Suzuki Outboard Engine Oil Capacities & Oil Filter Chart
- Suzuki Outboard Engine Gear Lube Capacity Chart
- Suzuki Outboard 100-Hour Service Checklist
- Suzuki Outboard Season Breakout Guide
Suzuki Outboard Lower Unit Assemblies - Prop Shafts - Transmission Components FAQ
What should I know about Suzuki Engine Lower Unit Assemblies, Prop Shafts, and Transmission Components?
Here’s some info you need to know about Suzuki Engine Lower Unit Assemblies, Prop Shafts, and Transmission Components:
- Suzuki outboard lower unit parts can be some of the most important parts for your engine. For example, if your Suzuki lower unit seal fails (a relatively inexpensive part), water can infiltrate while gear lube leaks out of your engine. This can destroy your Lower Unit Assembly from the inside out, cause excessive wear to the prop shaft, and eventually require a complete lower unit replacement.
- It’s important to use OEM Suzuki lower unit parts instead of aftermarket outboard lower unit parts (or remanufactured lower units). Because lower units are precision-designed, “one-size-fits-all” parts designed for a Suzuki DF115 lower unit will not necessarily fit a Suzuki 150 lower unit - even if the parts look identical.
- More so than other parts of your engine, the Suzuki 4-stroke outboard lower unit and Suzuki 2-stroke outboard lower unit require regular maintenance. Be sure to observe every service interval to change out the gear lube, replace the seals, visually inspect any damage, and more.
How often should I grease my Suzuki outboard grease points?
You must grease all points at regular service intervals—minimally, annually. Saltwater boaters need to lubricate much more frequently as saltwater breaks down grease, and saltwater on non lubricated surfaces causes a great deal of damage.
Refer to your owner’s manual to locate all the grease fittings on your specific engine. Most will be easy to find, but a couple are likely tucked away and are not quite as visible. While you must familiarize yourself with the grease fittings on your specific engine, common grease fitting points include:
- Steering friction adjustment shaft (tiller handle models)
- Swivel bracket
- Tilt tube
- Steering cable grease fitting
To add grease, first wipe off the grease fitting before attaching the grease gun nozzle to avoid pumping dirt and debris into the grease point. Also, you may have to remove rust and other debris clogging/blocking grease fittings.
Pump grease into the fitting until grease begins oozing out of the exit points of the area being greased. The old grease will be pushed out as it is being dislocated by the new grease. Wipe off the old grease with your rag.
When a given grease point is full, leave a bit of grease on top of the grease fitting to keep rust and other debris from accumulating. Wipe off any excess grease with your rag, then move to the next grease fitting.
While not needed for all scenarios, it is worth noting that Suzuki Water-Resistant Grease is formulated for high temperature and high load applications.
How do I troubleshoot a Suzuki Outboard Motor?
It’s best to first address the simplest potential problems before getting into more complicated matters. The following quick fixes may address the reason your Suzuki outboard motor stopped working.
- It may sound obvious, but check if there is gas in the tank. If so, is the tank vent open? A closed vent prevents air from replacing fuel as the motor pulls it out, which is necessary for firing up the engine.
- If the kill switch isn’t properly attached it could very well be the source of your motor problems. Undo the electrical connection and put it right back into place. The kill switch may need to be replaced altogether.
- The next point to check is your gear shift. It’s easy to knock out of place, which prevents the engine from starting. Make sure that you’re in neutral and try starting your engine once more.
- Sometimes, the issue may simply be that your Suzuki engine propeller has something tangled around it. This may be a fishing line, excessive seaweed, or some other material that’s worked its way around the blades. Carefully remove anything that may be wrapped around the propeller, and give it a once-over for any damage that may be present. If the propeller is damaged, it needs to be replaced. Debris around the propeller is the most likely culprit if your boat motor starts, but quickly dies.
- Try to start the engine both with and without using the choke. If this doesn’t work, try altering the throttle position. Applying more or less gas can sometimes do the trick. Finally, squeeze the primer bulb a few times to make sure the engine is primed up.
- Some batteries have an on/off switch. If this is true for your battery, make sure the switch is on. Then, if your engine is under 25HP, you may be able to use the emergency cord to pull-start. It’s possible to do this with up to a 50HP engine, but be aware that the higher the HP, the more difficult this will be. If this works, the battery is likely the issue. You may need to replace it.
How do I perform a 100-hour service on my Suzuki outboard engine?
To ensure proper engine function, it’s always best to service your Suzuki outboard engine every 100 hours after the initial break-in period (first 10 hours) and after the first maintenance interval (at 20 hours).
The following is a Suzuki outboard 100-hour service checklist to help you service your engine properly:
Service Item |
Action Needed |
Grease Fittings |
Lubricate |
Engine Oil |
Replace |
Engine Oil Filter |
Replace |
Anodes |
Inspect, replace as needed |
Battery |
Inspect |
Power Trim and Tilt Fluid |
Inspect |
Connectors and Spray with Silicone Spray |
Inspect & spray |
Shift and Throttle Cable Linkages |
Inspect |
Retorque Bolts, Nuts, and Fasteners |
Inspect |
Engine Mounts and Steering Brackets |
Inspect |
Spark Plugs |
Inspect, change as needed |
Gearcase Oil |
Replace |
Inspect Fuel Lines |
Inspect, replace as needed |
Fuel-Water Separator |
Replace |
Fuel Stabilizer |
Add before storing or when filling tank |
Mounting Bolts |
Inspect |
Propeller and Skeg |
Inspect |
Cowling |
Inspect |
Telltale Hole for Water Flow |
Inspect |
If you want a more in-depth explanation of how to perform a 100-hour service on a Suzuki outboard engine, read our blog “Suzuki Outboard 100-Hour Service Checklist”. Also, be sure to refer to your Suzuki Outboard Service Manual for which parts you’ll need, how to perform basic repairs, and other engine specific tasks
To make engine maintenance even easier, PartsVu has a wide selection of Suzuki outboard engine 100-hour service kits available. They’re pre-assembled with everything you need to keep your boat happy and healthy every 100 hours.
How do I service my Suzuki outboard lower unit?
Suzuki lower unit gear lube is drained by removing the lower drain screw first and then the upper plug vent to allow air in. On most models, both plugs are clearly visible on the lower unit, but on models with low water pickups, the forward pickup will need to be removed to access the drain plug.
Have a drain pan and extra rags handy as the gear lube will begin running down the skeg as soon as you remove the upper vent plug. Be sure to collect the fiber gaskets from both plugs after removal, as these are not reusable and should be discarded.
Use a properly sized screwdriver assisted by a wrench if necessary to loosen these screws which should be pretty tight. An impact driver and hammer may be needed depending on who serviced your engine last. The drain screw has a magnetic tip, so inspect the plug after removal to see if heavy deposits exist. Some fine shavings are normal, but chunks or a large quantity of metal are cause for further inspection.
What causes outboard engine vibration?
One of the primary causes of Suzuki outboard engine vibration is a damaged or compromised propeller. A characteristic sign that your propeller is the source of your problem is if throttling to higher RPMs intensifies the vibration.
First, check each of your props to ensure that each is in relatively good condition – any bends or damage can cause vibrations from the uneven propulsion. If you find damage, you’ll need to repair or replace it.
Suzuki propellers tangled with seaweed and fishing line can also restrict the propeller’s ability to rotate evenly, causing unwanted vibrations. If you boat in shallow waters or heavily trafficked waterways, you will need to monitor your propeller even more regularly.
During your inspections, be sure to look at your Suzuki propeller shaft for damage. Use a wrench to tighten the steering pivot and mounting bolt if either is loose, which may be the source of the excessive outboard vibrations. Once again, if you find damage or believe that the shaft is misaligned, you may need to visit your marine mechanic.
One of the most common types of Suzuki outboard engine vibration may come from loose engine mounts. As you throttle up, reverse, and idle, the bolts that mount your engine(s) may come loose during prolonged operation, creating an intermittent vibration – as well as steering issues (i.e., steering towards starboard or port when the wheel is straight).
To rectify this vibration, mounting bolts should be torqued to the degree specified for your engine. Carefully use a torque wrench to perform this task accurately and to ensure equal torquing across all mounts.