Marine Hardware | Hooks, Clasps, Latches, Pulls, and Rings

Hooks, Clasps, Latches, Pulls, and Rings - Resources & Information

From your boat’s cabin to the deck, bow to stern, and everything in between, there’s plenty of Marine Hardware that boats come equipped with. To safely secure and access cargo when you need it and keep your passengers safe, ensuring your Hooks, Clasps, Latches, Pull and Rings are in working order is essential for peace of mind. Plus, you can customize your Marine Hardware to improve your overall boating experience.

PartsVu offers a complete selection of Marine Hardware from OEM manufacturers and trusted aftermarket suppliers. Whether you need pulls latches, ring handles, cabinet hardware, and more, PartsVu has what you’re looking for. 

Need help servicing your outboard engine? PartsVu regularly publishes helpful how-to guides and other valuable maintenance information to help boaters service their outboard engines. Browse our outboard maintenance blog for a wide range of relevant topics and see the FAQ section below, covering everything you need to know about maintaining your boat in confidence.

Hooks, Clasps, Latches, Pulls, and Rings FAQ

What should I know about Hooks, Clasps, Latches, Pulls, and Rings?

Here’s some info you need to know about Hooks, Clasps, Latches, Pulls, and Rings:

• Corrosion is a big factor for keeping your Marine Hardware in working condition and looking its best. Every recessed ring pull, lifting handle, door latch, pull latches, and so on should be made of non-ferrous material. Look for durable metal materials - such as brass, zinc, chrome, stainless steel, and aluminum - all of which are corrosion-resistant and look attractive, especially after keeping them looking their best with some polishing with products like Buff Magic Compound Surface Reconditioner & Metal Polish.
• Plastic marine hardware is useful for inexpensive parts of your boat that only need basic functionality, like door latches, but it’s important to only use UV and temperature-resistant products. For hot climates, plastic hardware tends to melt and warp - particularly during storage or in direct sunlight.
• It’s inevitable that marine hardware will wear out over time. Whether due to vibration, slamming, or corrosion, be sure to regularly inspect your boat’s hardware every time you service your boat. Any loose hardware means that it’s beginning to wear out, where anything from food to emergency equipment, bilge plugs, and tie-downs, can fly out during heavy currents or while your boat’s in motion. 
• For the most security, installing padlocks and cables can give you extra peace of mind when you’re not around. Considering adding a lock for cabinet knobs to keep your valuables safe when you’re out relaxing on the marina, while also keeping younger passengers safe from dangerous objects like cutlery, flare guns, and more. 
• The hardware on your trailer is also very important to keep in working condition. Make sure coupler safety pins, tie down hooks, and other hardware is always inspected before and after loading your boat. All it takes is one part failing to cause serious damage when trailering your boat. 
• If you’re planning on selling your boat, replacing hardware cabinet latches, door hooks and everything else on your boat can increase the value of your boat. The cost of replacing a ring handle and a flush mount ring pull only takes a few minutes, but the ROI can mean thousands of dollars in how much you’ll be able to negotiate on the selling price. After all, if your cabnet hardware is shoddy and needing replacement, the buyer may believe that other parts of your boat are also in need of replacement and repair. 
• An electric cabinet latch can be a great feature to customize your boat, but you should know that an electrical failure may make accessing what you need more difficult. For example, if your flashlights and PFDs are stored in an electric cabinet, would they be easy to access manually?

How do I break out my boat trailer for the season?

1. Test your trailer lights (including brake lights and turn signals). Replace trailer lights, bulbs, and/or lenses as needed.
2. Check the inflation on your tires before hitting the road. It is best to check tire pressure when the tires are cold.
3. Check the tread on the tires. Try sticking a penny upside down in the tread. If the top of Lincoln’s head is visible, it’s time to start shopping for some new tires!
4. Check the tires for cracks on the sidewalls.
5. Check your boat trailer brakes (if this applies to your trailer). Try driving it around for a few minutes, coming to several stops. If the hubs or rotors are hot after this test drive, the brakes are working. Listen for any abnormal noises while driving the trailer.
6. If your trailer has a brake battery, hook it up to a charger to make sure it’s working.
7. Check and lubricate the trailer wheel bearings.
8. Check the lug nuts (before every trip) and see if they need to be tightened. Tighten them in a star pattern.
9. Check the boat trailer winch strap and tie-downs for wear. If they’re fraying or torn, it’s time to replace them. Dry rot frequently happens with these creating potentially dangerous situations. When in doubt, replace. Read this article to learn more about how to properly secure your boat on your boat trailer.
10. Clean the trailer winch with some solvent-based cleaner and a cloth. An old toothbrush can be used on the smaller parts.
11. Lubricate the boat trailer winch after it’s dry. Use a brush and cover all parts with a light coat of winch grease. Be careful to not apply lubrication to the strap or other tie-downs.
12. Lubricate the tongue jack. This quick video will walk you through the steps.
13. Make sure your trailer hitch lock is working so no one else drives away with it while it’s parked!
14. Check safety chains to make sure they are intact and crisscrossed under the tongue.
15. Inspect the boat trailer wiring harness and spray the contacts with dielectric grease. This will help combat corrosion.
16. Check boat trailer rollers if you have them for rust, breakage, or cracking.
17. Make sure the bunks are tight and that the carpeting on them is not deteriorating.
18. Be sure the hitch latch is securely closed. This should be easy if the ball is the same size as the coupler.
19. Before each and every trip, make sure the pin securing the ball mount to the receiver is intact.
20. Make sure your trailer registration is current.

How do I use ratchet straps on my boat trailer?

It is important to consider the size of your load. Load safety standards are in place from various government entities, but for boats, the general consensus is that at least three tie down points should be used for smaller vessels, and boats above 10,000 lbs. require a minimum of four tie down points. Quality straps are rated with a working load limit (WLL) and break strength tag or decal. Generally speaking, WLL is one third of break strength, so a 2” wide ratchet strap rated at 10,000 lbs. break strength only has a working load limit of 3,333 lbs. This allows a safety factor so that as you slam on the brakes and G forces are applied to the boat, the strap is able to hold back that 3,333 lbs. To allow that safety margin, federal rules require four of the 3,333 lbs. WLL straps to secure a 10,000 lbs. load.

The theory that your boat is heavy and will stay on the trailer is false. Trailers often have carpeted bunks to reduce friction, and the small metal “bow stand” that your winch is mounted to will break or fold during heavy braking or a crash impact. Your winch strap is probably looking a little faded and weak anyway.

Since the next thing in front of your boat is your tow vehicle (with you in it), PartsVu encourages you to take adequate steps to prevent your boat from jumping onto or over your vehicle. Owners with roller trailers should be especially aware of the opportunity for problems as those trailers can load and unload very easily both forward and aft. In most cases, ratchet straps are superior to cam-buckle straps or rope because you can ratchet them to proper tension. Simply cut your ratchet tie down straps to the proper length to eliminate excess webbing and make installation easier in the future after the first use.

Most boats have metal tie down points like bow eyes and stern eyes as a part of their construction. For vessels that do not, finding a suitable method of securing the boat could include going up and over the gunnels, or looping through cleats. Properly matching the hook for your ratchet strap to the mounting point on your vessel will prevent fiberglass damage. Most big-box retailers do carry ratchet straps, but their twisted wire hooks are not suited to the bow eyes and stern eyes of most vessels. PartsVu uses a flat snap hook that easily clips onto bow eyes and stern eyes without contacting the fiberglass. It also works well for securing race cars, equipment, and bulky items in the bed of your truck. These straps have a WLL of 2,000 lbs. each, so you can use multiple straps on each attachment point to properly cover heavier loads.

We also offer a smaller size all stainless strap for smaller boats. This stainless strap is also ideal for securing motorcycles, ATVs, and personal watercraft. Additionally, avoid straps with nylon webbing which become significantly weaker when wet and will stretch when damp.

It is also important to know that ratchet straps do have a life expectancy. The webbing degrades from exposure to sun, and the hardware will age from saltwater and the environment. While you would not intentionally dunk your ratchets in the ocean, the boat will be wet when you load the trailer, and drips on the straps are a fact of life. As a rough rule, nylon will generally last about five years, and the ratchets and snap hooks should be treated regularly with a good corrosion inhibitor like Boeshield T-9.

What outboard engine tools should I have onboard?

Even if you don’t do your own maintenance, all boaters need some basic boat tools in their marine tool kits to help them out of a jam. Of course, if you plan to do your own maintenance or a portion of your own maintenance, you’ll need to be a bit better equipped.

So which boat tools should you have onboard? The following are our recommendations and the reasons behind them. Of course, the tools you should have onboard are significantly dictated by the type of boating you do. As a practical matter, a near-shore, freshwater boater needs fewer tools than an off-shore boater. While a problem close to the shore can be an annoyance, a problem off-shore might be a whole different matter.

• Fuel filter wrench—good idea to have on board if you get enough water or debris in your fuel system that a fuel filter change becomes necessary.
• Adjustable band filter wrench—you may need to change your fuel/water separating filter if you have water in your system or if you got some bad gas at the marina. US marinas nearly always sell high-quality filtered gasoline, but marinas in the Bahamas are notorious for selling contaminated gasoline.
• Prop nut wrench—carrying this wrench only makes sense if you carry a spare prop. Many boaters carry a spare inexpensive aluminum prop in case they spin a hub or bend a blade so severely that it wobbles.
• Deck fill key/deck plate key/spanner wrench—these universal tools are designed to open all types and sizes of deck fill lids and shackles. Many of these tools also include bonus tools like bottle openers. Perfect for a cold one after fishing.
• Toolkit—if you have room on your boat, all-purpose toolkits can come in handy. 
• Pliers—channel lock, standard, and needle nose
• Leatherman–a very helpful all-purpose tool.
• Rigging knife
• Serrated knife—for cutting rope, your all-purpose tool might include a serrated blade.
• Flashlight
• Emergency plug set—in case a leak manifests while you are out on the water.
• Battery booster pack
• Battery terminal cleaner
• Zip ties—because we all know that you can fix almost everything with zip ties and duct tape.
• Duct tape